![]() Designations for this format include NEDA 1604 and IEC 6F22 (for zinc-carbon) or MN1604 6LR61 (for alkaline). Mercury batteries of this format, once common, have been banned in many countries due to their toxicity. The nine-volt PP3-size battery is commonly available in primary zinc-carbon and alkaline chemistry, in primary lithium iron disulfide and lithium manganese dioxide (sometimes designated CRV9 ), and in rechargeable form in nickel-cadmium (Ni–Cd), nickel-metal hydride (Ni–MH) and lithium-ion. This type is commonly used for many applications including household uses such as smoke and gas detectors, clocks, and toys. ![]() The PP3 has a rectangular prism shape with rounded edges and two polarized snap connectors on the top. Batteries of various sizes and capacities are manufactured a very common size is known as PP3, introduced for early transistor radios. Actual voltage measures 7.2 to 9.6 volts, depending on battery chemistry. The nine-volt battery, or 9-volt battery, is an electric battery that supplies a nominal voltage of 9 volts. Vintage PP3-size 9- volt batteries Size comparison of batteries: D, C, AA, AAA, AAAA, PP3 (9-volt) For the WarioWare character, see Wario (series) § Major characters. So these should be tested with a load resistance - for s short time one can also measure the current, if one is sure not to have a alkaline cell or even rechargeable."9-Volt" redirects here. Even when new they are not good for high current, but when old the maximum current goes down a lot. However with these cells the internal resistance and thus maximum current they can deliver will get worse over time. Even a 99.9% dead (hardly enough to run a clock) cell still reads near 1.5 V. With these cells the open circuit voltage does not give much information. These cells are kind of junk and are normally not work buying. The other battery type is the old dry cell (zink carbon). Even when down to some 1.2 V an AA cell max sill deliver 1 A short circuit current. There are special ones for high current load and low current (e.g. However this can not tell the difference between different brands / types. Full/new is slightly above 1.5 V and empty is at around 1.2-1.3 V, depending on where they are used. So just measuring the voltage can tell if the batteries are full or empty. so then you can connect the battery to the constant current load and see how much the voltage drops at a particular current amount.Īlkaline cells can be tested open circuit. I made one following the schematic on (the site is dead now but linking to copy of it and attaching the schematic below) : Here's the pdf : currentload-rev2.pdf (215.82 kB - downloaded 175 times.) I used the same opamp as it's cheap, but used another mosfet because it was easier to find : fqp50n06 Here's how my tool looks on cheap prototyping board: (pictures attached to the message i posted years ago) A tool like this would allow you to adjust the current using the potentiometer (you can read the actual current value you set with the potentiometer by measuring the voltage drop across the resistors in the circuit). ![]() It's basically a potentiometer, a mosfet on a heatsink, an opamp and a bunch of capacitors and resistors. and then a secondary test under load or AMP through multimeter on the ones that test within good voltage parameters? Or should I set up a circuit and test the voltage when under load and see how far it drops? What would be an easy way to do this? Set up a battery holder hooked up to a number of different resistors and test the voltage across the battery when it runs through different resistor values?Ī fun and easy project for you would be to make your own constant current load. for example, if 5-7A it's fresh and good for some heavy-duty toys, and in the 1-2A rating it may be ok for remote-controls or low-energy devices? Does it make sense to first filter my batteries by voltage on the terminals. Is this a good secondary way to check? Is there a rating system I can use. For example, my 9V battery tests 9.31V on the terminals but as soon as I check AMP on the terminals, I am getting 0.040 A and dropping. AA, AAA, C, D, 9V etc.) with a multimeter, how do I make sure they actually perform under load properly? A bunch of batteries would all show the normal 1.5V terminal difference, but if I switch the multimeter to AMP, I may get 5-7 A reading straight from the terminals, but some batteries have much less (1-2 A). Hi, This is perhaps a simple question but aside from measuring voltage of batteries (i.e.
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